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Summary
Summary
NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER * A collection of over 110 recipes for sweets, baked goods, and confections from superstar chef Yotam Ottolenghi, thoroughly tested and updated.
Yotam Ottolenghi is widely beloved in the food world for his beautiful, inspirational, and award-winning cookbooks, as well as his London delis and fine dining restaurant. And while he's known for his savory and vegetarian dishes, he actually started out his cooking career as a pastry chef. Sweet is entirely filled with delicious baked goods, desserts, and confections starring Ottolenghi's signature flavor profiles and ingredients including fig, rose petal, saffron, orange blossom, star anise, pistachio, almond, cardamom, and cinnamon. A baker's dream, Sweet features simple treats such as Chocolate, Banana, and Pecan cookies and Rosemary Olive Oil Orange Cake, alongside recipes for showstopping confections such as Cinnamon Pavlova with Praline Cream and Fresh Figs and Flourless Chocolate Layer Cake with Coffee, Walnut, and Rosewater.
* Finalist for the 2018 James Beard Foundation Book Awards for "Baking and Desserts" and "Photography" categories
* Finalist for the 2018 International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) Cookbook Award for "Baking" category
Author Notes
Yotam Ottolenghi was born on December 14, 1968 in Jerusalem. He is a British-based chef, cookery writer and restaurant owner. He started out as a writer working on the news desk of Haaretz, one of Israel¿s largest papers. In 1997 he moved to the UK planning to start a PhD, but before he enrolled he signed up to train at Le Cordon Bleu cookery school in London for six months. He got a job as head pastry chef at the London boutique bakery Baker & Spice and this is where he met Sami Tamimi and Dan Lepard.
Ottolenghi's cooking style is rooted in, but not confined to, his Middle Eastern upbringing: a distinctive mix of Middle Eastern flavours Syrian, Turkish, Lebanese, Iranian, and Israeli. His particular skill is in marrying the food of his native Israel with a wider range of textures and flavours from the Mediterranean, Middle East and Asia. Before turning to food and cooking, Ottolenghi was in both academia and journalism. He was a sub-editor on the news desk of Haaretz, Israel's oldest daily newspaper, and a student in Tel Aviv University.
Following a six-month course at the London-based French cookery school, Le Cordon Bleu, in 1997, Ottolenghi worked as a pastry chef at The Capital, the Michelin-starred restaurant in Knightsbridge. From there he moved to work in the pastry section of the Kensington Place restaurant and that of the sister restaurant, Launceston Place, for a year, under the chef Rowley Leigh. He eventually became head pastry chef at Baker and Spice in Chelsea, London, where he met Sami Tamimi co-founder of their delicatessens and restaurants and co-author of the Ottolenghi and Jerusalem cookery books in 1999. In 2015 his book Nopi: The Cookbook Ramael made The New Zealand Best Seller List. Ottolenghi Simple was published in September 2018.
(Bowker Author Biography)
Reviews (4)
Publisher's Weekly Review
The latest from Ottolenghi (after Nopi), written with pastry chef and longtime collaborator Goh, displays the signature dishes that have earned the London restaurateur legions of fans and a monthly column in the New York Times: doughnuts filled with saffron custard and dusted with cardamom sugar; dark-chocolate brownies streaked with tahini and halva, which incorporate Middle Eastern ingredients used in new ways; and clever lemon layer cake with vertical stripes of blackcurrant puree and buttercream and a trio of cylindrical cakes baked in cans. In the preface, the authors brush off concerns about sugar and note that though gluten-free and nut-free recipes are marked for convenience, there was no purposeful attempt to include them. Many recipes include multiple parts, but thorough instructions and alternatives for the unusual pans sometimes called for make them accessible. The volume closes with thoughtful tips and notes on ingredients. A catch-all chapter includes such different delights as a barley pudding and a frozen parfait in the form of an oversize ice cream sandwich. Modern, creative, appealing, and, most importantly, fun-this is Ottolenghi at the top of his game. (Oct.) © Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved.
Booklist Review
Superstar chef-proprietor of five London restaurants and the author of four previous cookbooks, including Plenty More (2014) and, most recently, NOPI (2015), Ottolenghi, with Helen Goh, his colleague of more than 10 years, shares his first desserts-only collection. Recipe and section introductions refer to the authors' Sunday recipe-testing sessions (oh, to be invited to one of those!); call out their many international influences; and share credit with collaborators. Although the authors stress that baking, to them, means perfecting recipes to be the best versions of themselves and that any allergy-friendly recipes came to be so by accident only, they also happily note several gluten-free and nut-free options. The temptations are too many to list, but fans can expect Ottolenghified riffs on classics, like millionaire's shortbread flavored with halvah and tahini, pastry with polenta mixed in for crunch, and Cleopatra Cake, made with grapes and an entire bottle of wine. Ingredients are listed in both weight and volume, instructions are detailed and clear, and showstopping photos give meticulous home chefs something to aim for.--Bostrom, Annie Copyright 2017 Booklist
New York Review of Books Review
WHERE ELSE TO START, but with the San Francisco chef Chris Cosentino and his co-author, Michael Harlan, whose inclusion of cow udders sets them apart, as does their book's title: OFFAL GOOD: Cooking From the Heart, With Guts (Clarkson Potter, $40). Maybe it appeals to me because 1 have more than a passing familiarity with the cow udder - even if not as an ingredient. My ignorance of its culinary potential, and yours, can be forgiven. As Cosentino notes, outside Argentina, Uruguay and Brazil, udders have never been given their due, on menus or in cookbooks. But Cosentino's enticing description ("fatty like bacon and loaded with protein") makes me wonder why the udder remains a ghost in the nose-to-tail wars. (Sure, anyone who has eaten a hot dog has eaten processed udder, but 1 wanted one in its pristine state.) Determined as 1 was to taste his Milk-Braised Cow's Udder and Spicy Broccoli Rabe, maybe it's just as well that 1 failed. The prospect of cleaning a lactating udder by "pressing firmly until it's empty" while taking care to "do this in a pan so the milk doesn't squirt everywhere" would be a macabre repetition of the twice-daily milking of cows that was one of my chores as a kid. Why does it not surprise me that prepping testicles is a cinch in comparison? Simply blanch (twice) to remove the double-membrane and poach until "just firm," at which point they can be "sliced, seared, breaded, and/or fried." My effort to locate cockscombs also met with failure. 1 want to experience the gummy-bear-like appearance and texture in Cosentino's Candied Cockscombs, Rice Pudding and Pomegranate. N ext time 1 have a real dinner party, 1 'm determined to source well in advance. I'm thinking of a menu that starts with his Lamb Brain on Toast with Creamed Nettles and Morels followed by a main course of Duck Brodo, Unformed Eggs, Duck Fries and Masutake, a dish he calls "sex soup: man, woman and child, all in one dish." For dessert, I'll be sure to locate those cockscombs. Cosentino's writing and recipes are playful, irreverent and inspired. 1 want to cook them all - and 1 don't even worship offal, especially the subtleties of fries versus stones. But the disparity did get me wondering: Could the inequality of male and female organs in culinary history offer a clue to the gender divide between savory and sweet food? To stretch the argument a bit, if testicles are the main course then udders are, at best, dessert. Sure, Gaston Lenôtre was one of many legendary French bakers, and two of this year's big baking books are by men, both of whom learned their trade in Europe: Jim Lahey's Sullivan STREET BAKERY COOKBOOK (Norton, $35), written with his wife, Maya Joseph, and Eric Kayser's maison kayser'S FRENCH PASTRY WORKSHOP (Black Dog & Leventhal, $29.99), translated by Zachary R. Townsend. Professional baking of the kind that creates Kayser's Tarte aux Abricots et Creme Amande-Pistache (Apricot-Almond-Pistachio Tart) and Mille-Feuille aux Fruits Rouge (Layered CreamFilled Pastry With Berries) has long been presided over by men in white chef's coats, just as bread, as in the case of Lahey at Sullivan Street Bakery, has long leaned toward the masculine sphere. As this fall's crop of books testify, women, particularly in America, are often relegated to the realm of popular "homemade" sweets. fn THE FEARLESS BAKER: Simple Secrets for Baking Like a Pro (Rux Martin / Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $30), Erin Jeanne McDowell tries to crack a few of the barriers that keep this sort of activity in a feminized category by debunking the idea that baking is rigid and unforgiving - as if female bakers need plenty of rules to succeed, even at such a modest level. As most cooks regularly do, she asks, why not when baking "add a pinch of this, a splash of that," like it's nothing? 1 couldn't agree more. She vows to emancipate home bakers by explaining why to do something, not simply how. To this end, she follows her recipes with explanations of "Why ft Works" and "Pro Tips." As a lover of science in the kitchen â la Harold McGee, 1 only wish McDowell's explanations of recipes were driven by chemistry rather than general logic, as in the advice for her Blueberry Cream Roulade: "If you overwork the batter at any stage, you'll end up with a tough cake that will likely tear when you roll it up." If liberating yourself to bake the way most of us cook savory food isn't your goal, the volume of what I'll call home baking books will not leave you staring listlessly at your "Joy of Cooking" amid the holiday baking flurry. Choose from Jessica Siskin's treat yourself: how to Make 93 Ridiculously Fun No-Bake Rice Crispy Treats (Workman, paper, $14.95); America's Test Kitchen's the perfect cookie: Your Ultimate Guide to Foolproof Cookies, Brownies & Bars (America's Test Kitchen, $35); Stella Parks's BRAVETART: Iconic American Desserts (Norton, $35); Naomi Robinson's BAKER'S ROYALE: 75 Twists on All Your Favorite Sweets (Running Press, $28); Roxanne Wyss and Kathy Moore's delicious poke cakes (St. Martin's Griffin, paper, $19.99) and Jocelyn Brubaker's cheesecake LOVE: Inventive, Irresistible, and Super-Easy Cheesecake Desserts for Every Day (Thomas Dunne / St. Martin's Griffin, $27.99). This is far from an exhaustive list. The book you like best will depend on your skill, ambition and taste. If cheesecake is your obsession, Brubaker's single-minded preoccupation with that rich custard will leap right out at you. 1 gravitated toward "Baker's Royale" for its delicate and very pretty Chocolate Affogato Mousse Cake and for the Banana Upside-Down Cake. Why is Robinson's perfectly caramelized cake not a classic? (And how did the abominable pineapple find its way to the bottom of a cake pan in the first place?) For the more ambitious, you can impress yourself with Raspberry Eclairs with Vanilla Bean Cream - finished with edible gold leaf, no less. The autumn baking book 1 most admire is Parks's "BraveTart." While I'm not sure if 1 like it in spite of or because of the title, the book's layout, photographs and scope pulled me in. 1 stayed and kept reading because Parks has done her homework as earnestly as a grad student, having spent five years in the primary-source trenches, with pages of source notes to prove it. If this sort of scholarly effort puts you off, don't let it. You'll find tasty homemade takes on the Girl Scouts' Thin Mint cookies, as well as Twinkies and Wonder Bread, each accompanied by the product's back story, right next to classics like Magic Key Lime Pie and One-Bowl Devil's Food Layer Cake With Milk Chocolate Frosting. By taking the evolution of American baking's cultural and commercial history seriously, Parks challenges those who might consider it dowdy when compared with serious European pastry. Fair enough. But it takes a book as smart, thorough and creative as "BraveTart" to persuade me to put women's work and the goods they produce in proper perspective - and 1 consider myself an ardent-feminist home baker. 1 promise not to call this kind of baking dowdy again. Having had my dessert before my meal, I'll press beyond the gluttony of butter and sugar. If you're aiming for virtuous good health, you'll certainly find a book to fuel your preoccupation. Choose from Pearl Barrett and Serene Allison's TRIM HEALTHY MAMATRIM HEALTHY TABLE: More Than 300 All-New Healthy and Delicious Recipes From Our Homes to Yours (Harmony, paper, $32.50); Dr. Mehmet Oz'S FOOD CAN FIX IT: The Superfood Switch to Fight Fat, Defy Aging, and Eat Your Way Healthy (Scribner, $29.99); Jennifer Esposito and Eve Adamson's JENNIFER'S WAY KITCHEN: Easy Allergen-Free, Anti-Incree flammatory Recipes for a Delicious Life (Grand Central, $30); MAYO CLINIC: The Integrative Guide to Good Health (Oxmoor, paper, $26.99), by Brent A. Bauer, M.D., Cindy A. Kermott, M.D., and Martha P. Millman, M.D.; Marie W. Lawrence's the organic lunchbox: 125 Yummy, Quick, and Healthy Recipes for Kids (Skyhorse, $22.99); THE TURMERIC COOKBOOK (Aster, $12.99); Ella Mills's NATURAL FEASTS: 100+ Healthy, Plant-Based Recipes to Share and Enjoy With Friends and Family (Scribner, $24); Amanda Hamilton and Hannah Ebelthite's THE GUT PLAN DIET: The Revolutionary Diet for Gut-Healthy Weight Loss (Aster, paper, $16.99); FOOD, HEALTH AND HAPPINESS: 115 On-Point Recipes for Great Meals and a Better Life (Flatiron, $35), by Oprah Winfrey, with Lisa Kogan ; THE KETO RESET DIET: Reboot Your Metabolism in 21 Days and Burn Fat Forever (Harmony, $27.99), by Mark Sisson, with Brad Kearns - O.K., I'll stop. But not before I mention my favorite, Dr. Michael Greger and Gene Stone's THE HOW NOT TO DIE COOKBOOK (Flatiron, $29.99), with recipes by Robin Robertson. Although, if forced to eat their Mac and Cheese again, I might. It contains no cheese - only broccoli, miso paste, almond butter and a list of unmentionables that have never had any right to attach themselves to the dish we've collectively agreed to call macaroni and cheese. Perhaps I should forgive Dr. Greger. As Vir Sanghvi observed in his 2004 collection "Rude Food," "the food world is nothing if not trendy. Once a cuisine catches on then everybody is doing it: Sichuan one year, Thai the next and Mediterranean after that. It's much the same with ingredients - from foie gras to rocket." And, I would add, it's much the same with health trends and cooking methods. We once had low-fat, then we had low-carb and now we have "clean" food and gut books and oh so many remedies for inflammation. Where once there was the microwave so came the pressure cooker, wok and hot pot. Perhaps you don't have much time to cook, so you've turned to the one-pot method, making it possible to arrive home after a long day to a ready meal. A worthy and necessary goal. But, given all the flavor-gilding browning before the ingredients go in the pot, I prefer the sheet pan. So if you're determined to save time and eat well, have a look at Raquel Pelzel's sheet PAN SUPPERS MEATLESS: 100 Surprising Vegetarian Meals Straight From the Oven (Workman, paper, $16.95). Pelzel offers recipes that call for no advance work other than a bit of chopping and mixing. By extracting flavor through browning rather than stewing, her recipes allow for distinctive flavors while rescuing the one pot's dearest sacrifice to method: texture. Whether chewy, crispy or crunchy, her unassuming recipes appeal. She even manages to make a tasty No-Boil Mac and Cheese on a sheet pan. Her Moroccan Couscous Salad With Olives, Chickpeas and Roasted Tomatoes takes all of half an hour - most of it oven time. It's fresh and lively, thanks to the finishing touch of feta and chopped fresh mint. Her Lentil-and-Spinach-Stuffed Squash Halves, hearty and filling, are brought to the table with ribbons of Parmigiano-Reggiano and a squeeze of lemon juice. I don't buy cookbooks to not-die, nor do I buy them to save myself from really cooking at all - if that's what the one-pot promise is selling. What do I want to find on the glossy pages of a newly acquired collection of recipes? Sometimes it's inspired reinventions of classics with novel twists. For this I'll take Christopher Kimball's MILK STREET: The New Home Cooking (Little, Brown, $40), written with Matthew Card, J. M. Hirsch, Michelle Locke and Jennifer Baldino Cox. Why? For the Skillet-Braised Brussels Sprouts With Garlic, Anchovy and Chili and the Apple, Celery Root and Fennel Salad With Hazel Nuts. When I want full-gloss photo spreads that almost convince me I'm chopping shallots on a rough-hewed farm table while sporting rosy cheeks and barnyardmucked Wellies, I'll take Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell's a seat at the table: Recipes to Nourish Your Family, Friends, and Community (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $30), written with Rose Marie Trapani. I choose it for the lifestyle fantasy, not for the recipes, which are pretty standard farm-to-table fare: Tomato, Olive and Caper Sauce; Bacon-Wrapped Stuffed Dates and Grilled Summer Vegetables. If I want a new book of the aspirational recipes I'll cook when the queen shows up for dinner (otherwise known as intimidating recipes to remind me what a lazy cook I am) I'll hold onto Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski's STATE BIRD PROVISIONS (Ten Speed, $40), written with JJ Goode. Did I adore their daunting Cast-Iron Quail Eggs With Summer Vegetable Condiments and Garlic Chips? Unquestionably. (Almost as much as I adored the lush photograph of the dish with its tiny glistening yolks, dots of vinaigrette, sunny cherry tomatoes still on their vines and scattered precious microgreens, microherbs and edible flowers.) As self-congratulatory as I felt delivering the food to the table, I was certain I didn't need the two separate vinaigrettes, the garlic chips and the fussy little creoja - a sort of micro pickled vegetable condiment. My real reward? A neat trick they do cooking the quail eggs in the cast-iron pan that I'll take for a spin of my own - maybe even with a handful of microgreens. Whatever I do will be derivative, which is how cooking works. As Jonathan Meades writes in his irreverent Cookbook, THE PLAGIARIST IN THE KITCHEN: A Lifetime's Culinary Thefts (Random House U.K., $29.95), "in the kitchen there is nothing new and nor can there be anything new. It's all theft. Anyone who claims to have 'invented' a dish is dishonest, or delusional or foaming." It's not originality we seek. The greatest pleasure of acquiring a new cookbook is simple: surprise. Maybe it's the idea of udder braised in milk that's new to me but surely not original. Maybe it's the discovery of the advertising history of Wonder Bread. Or a reminder of the underappreciated utility of a single sheet pan. I adore Meades's book, but not because I'll be doing much cooking from it. I love it because I want more of his rule-breaking irreverence in my kitchen. We've become painfully earnest about what we eat - at least when we're not being cheekily ironic. In the spirit of keeping it all in good, honest fun, I'll end with Meades's "original" recipe for Fig and Ham Tart. The result of this "wreck of a dish" pleases me more than any recipe I've read in quite some time: "Bake at 200° C for 20 minutes. Leave to cool. Taste. Chuck in bin." ? lefavour is the author of four cookbooks. Her most recent book is a memoir, "Lights On, Rats Out." Cooking With The Times Readers of The Times's Food section will recognize some familiar names on bookstore shelves this season. Which means that it might be a good time to throw out that bulging clip file and find your favorite recipes preserved between the covers of three new books. In DINNER IN AN INSTANT (Clarkson Potter, $22), Melissa Clark delivers just what the cover promises, "75 modern recipes for your pressure cooker, multicooker and instant pot." DAVID TANIS MARKET COOKING (Artisan, $40) showcases the City Kitchen columnist's "recipes and revelations ingredient by ingredient." And what better way to finish up than with Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh's SWEET (Ten Speed, $35), a wide-ranging celebration of baking and desserts?
Library Journal Review
Nearly ten years since the UK release of Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, readers may be wondering whether Ottolenghi's cookbooks are still worth the hype. In the case of this elegantly understated baking guide, the answer is yes. Written with pastry chef and product developer Goh, the book brings together signature cookies, cakes, confections, tarts, and other desserts from Ottolenghi's eponymous restaurants. Recipes such as chocolate and peanut butter s'mores, apricot and amaretto cheesecake, chai brulee tarts, and yogurt panna cotta with basil and crushed strawberries look terrific on the page and produce consistently exquisite results. Some readers may balk at sourcing hard-to-find items such as passionfruit pulp, prickly pears, and speciality cake rings, but adventurous bakers will embrace the challenge. Plan to review the "baker's tips and notes" section, which contains important information about ingredients and techniques. VERDICT Expect demand for this much-anticipated title. © Copyright 2017. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Excerpts
Excerpts
Tahini and Halva Brownies The combination of tahini, halva and chocolate is so good that some members of staff (Tara, we see you!) had to put a temporary personal ban on eating these particular brownies during the making of this book. It is very hard to eat just one. In order to achieve the perfect balance of cakey and gooey--that sweet spot that all brownies should hit--the cooking time is crucial. It will vary by a minute or so depending on where the pan is sitting in the oven, so keep a close eye on them. Makes 20 -- 1 cup plus 6 tbsp/310 g unsalted butter, cut into 3/4-inch/2-cm cubes, plus extra for greasing 11 oz/310 g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), broken into 1 1/2-inch/4-cm pieces 5 large eggs 1 3/4 cups/350 g granulated sugar 1 1/4 cups/150 g all-purpose flour 1/3 cup plus 2 tbsp/40 g Dutch-processed cocoa powder 3/4 tsp salt 8 3/4 oz/250 g halva, broken into 3/4-inch/2-cm pieces 1/3 cup/100 g tahini paste -- Preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Grease a 9 x 13-inch/23 x 33-cm pan, line with enough parchment paper to create a 3/4-inch/2-cm overhang and then set aside. Place the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, making sure that the base of the bowl is not touching the water. Leave for 7-8 minutes to melt, then remove the bowl from the heat. Stir until you have a thick shiny sauce and then set aside to come to room temperature. Place the eggs and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until pale and creamy and a trail is left behind when you move the whisk; this will take about 3 minutes with an electric mixer on medium speed, longer by hand. Add the chocolate and fold through gently with a spatula--don't overwork the mixture here. Sift the flour, cocoa powder and salt into a bowl, then gently fold into the chocolate mixture. Finally, add the pieces of halva, gently fold through the mix, then pour or scrape the mixture into the lined baking pan, using a small spatula to even it out. Dollop small spoonfuls of the tahini paste into the mix in about 12 different places, then use a skewer to swirl them through to create a marbled effect, taking the marbling right to the edges of the pan. Bake for about 38 minutes, until the middle has a slight wobble and it is gooey inside--they may be ready anywhere between 36 and 40 minutes. They may seem a little undercooked at first, but they firm up once they start to cool down. If you want to serve them warmish (and gooey), set aside for just 30 minutes before cutting into 20 pieces. Otherwise, set aside for longer to cool to room temperature. Excerpted from Sweet by Yotam Ottolenghi, Helen Goh All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.